September 2, 2009 13:58 by
Seth
Big monday.. Hurricane bill came ripping up the east coast and bringing with it massive waves to the coast of maine. Tragedy struck when a young girl was washed out to sea from MDI'S Thunderhole, but last monday when the winds calmed down and I sat outside the gate of Scarborough Beach State Park in the pre-dawn darkness of 5 am I was filled with nothing but anticipation, for I had not stood on a clean wave since my last morning session in Costa Rica at the point of Matapalo on the morning of June 1st.
My friend Ben Coombs pulled up along side me and opened the gate with the swipecard and we were in! The first two cars for what I heard discribed afterwards by many as the best swell to hit Maine in August in years. My first paddle out sucked me into a fast rip that sucked me 70 yards down the beach and right in front of an 8 wave set. Severely winded, I paddled out the back to meet Ben grinning at me amidst the rolling swells. As I stroked into my first wave of the day some minutes later I was brought back to that magical feeling of standing on water, flying along in a place visited by very few. The moments I experience in the waves of the world are only matched by my most zen moments in Alaska and fill me with a contentment in life that is very hard to find.. The day was epic indeed.
As I drank my third red bull of the night to stay awake on the drive up 27 north that night after some 7.5 hours in the water I was reminded once again of just how special Maine is. It's been a good week of golf, training and landscaping, and now I find myself in seat 9k ready to fly to Beunos Aires. I am going to the winter and the task at hand is upon me. The quest to repeat in Vancouver begins. I will awake in Argentina and cross the continent in a search for snow. To test the Kessler boards I have designed and to meet my comrades in competition. I am less then six months away from the opening ceremonies and couldn't be happier to be embarking on this quest. When I return home the color will be coming into the maples and we will all be moving closer to snow on the Loaf. Have a great couple of weeks Maine. I will see you soon...